| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| Drying and Resawing Wood? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5642 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | ATaylor [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 10:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
So many questions, so many sage people on this forum! I'm looking for information about the process of resawing wood for back and side sets. I get conflicting information about drying vs resawing. Some sources say dry the cants to under 10% then resaw, others say resaw first then dry to reduce checking and allow faster drying. What do you guys do? Also, I remember people mentioning a great book on all things wood. I think it's about time to add it to my library if someone can remind me of it's title. TIA! |
|
| Author: | A Peebels [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
With fresh cut logs, I cut into billets with a chain saw, paint the ends, and air dry for 6 mo. before resawing. After resawing, I sticker and let them dry until stable. When I resaw lumber, I just slice it up, and then let it stabalize for a while before using. I know it's not very scientific, but so far it works. Mabe someone else will give you more info. Al |
|
| Author: | Brazilwood [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Alan...I've resawn fresh and dried wood. I really prefer to cut dry wood. It just cuts easier and the blade doesnt' tend to wander as much and from my experience..doesn't dull the blade as fast. Wet wood will dull a blade very fast. I cut BRW quite a bit and the oils will gum up the blade more if wet. If you're not in a hurry, I would recommend blocking the wood, waxing the ends, leave a few inches on each end for checking that could occur during the drying process though. Nothing worse than cutting it too close only to have a big crack occur in the end that makes it virtually useless after waiting so long for it to dry. Don't try and dry it too fast, this will cause cracks and surface checking. It can take 6 months to 1 year per inch of thickness for it to truly be dried. But, if stored in a low humidity (not too low) and not too hot environment (70 to 75degrees)you could go ahead and resaw, sticker and allow to finish drying. Resawing is a learned process and everyone has their own take on it that is usually based on the experiences that work best for them. Good luck.. |
|
| Author: | ATaylor [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[QUOTE=A Peebels] With fresh cut logs, I cut into billets with a chain saw, paint the ends, and air dry for 6 mo. before resawing. After resawing, I sticker and let them dry until stable. When I resaw lumber, I just slice it up, and then let it stabalize for a while before using. I know it's not very scientific, but so far it works. Mabe someone else will give you more info. Al[/QUOTE] Thanks for the response Al. What woods do you do this with usually? |
|
| Author: | A Peebels [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use logs of sycamore, and curly maple. Lumber- cocobolo, wenge, maple, walnut, paduk,ziricote,etc. I'm geting ready to saw some nice quartersawm, spalted sycamore that came out of my neighbors yard about a year ago. I've also got some nice spalting curly maple that is too smallfor b&s, but will make nice electric guitar tops. Al |
|
| Author: | A Peebels [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
One of the problems that I have with resawing lumber, is that with kiln dried wood, it is often case hardened, and cups badly as it is resawn. I did some cocobolo one time that cupped so badly that it was binding the sawblade. I split the board right down the middle and was unable to flatten it enough to resaw again. I wetted and clamped it, heated it and clamped, nothing worked. I finally planed it flat, and used it on an electric guitar. Al |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|